Thursday, 21 May 2015

Retiring to the Philippines

Life in the Philippine
or
The Land Of Broken Dreams


Like anywhere in the world there are positives and negatives attached to wherever you live. And in the Philippines there's a hell of a lot of negatives which I will warn you about if you're contemplating retiring out there. I lived in the country for over a year and made quite a few English and American friends some of whom had described it as 'The land of broken dreams'. Before I went I had no idea there were more negatives than positives, much more than all my prior research could have told me.

The Pilipino people
Beware of the indigenous people especially the females, they are very accomplished liars and anyone who is not a Pilipino is fair game.
The native people are very friendly and love to befriend and chat to us 'foreigners' (which is what all non-Pilipinos are referred to) and enjoy helping us whenever they can. Their philosophy of life seems in many ways is to live from day to day without any concern for the future. But the longer you live there the more you begin to understand the camouflaged pretence behind all this bonhomie. Basically it all boils down to the most common of all denominators - money. Westerners have it and usually Pilipinos don't. So basically they are after it and depending on how nicely they have been raised influences how they get it.

There are many tales and confessions about foreigners who have lost absolutely everything. They went to the islands full of hope of retiring, marrying a lovely Filipina and living happily ever after. Perhaps a small percentage do but the majority most certainly don’t. I have heard plenty of horror stories about foreigners who have lost all their hard-earned money. They marry, settle down with a Filipina wife who secretly has a Filipino lover or husband and before they know it the law which is heavily swayed on the side of the Pilipinos gives all the foreigner's assets to the wife. I have heard these tales so many times I have come to believe them. Not only that, for these are the luckier ones, some foreigners have become victims to more psychopathic locals. I have been reliably told of an Englishman who drank with Pilipino men for five long years every evening, buying all the drinks, when one night they killed him for a few pesos. The moral of the story is you can't trust them however friendly they appear to be.

Then there is the noise. This is because the locals do not like peace and quiet and is largely due to Pilipino men enjoying watching and betting on two animals fighting to the death. So they breed roosters and fighting dogs. In the UK roosters annoying crow at 5am and then stop. There they crow all day and sometimes during the night. When I first arrived in Lapu Lapu our close-by neighbour had eight cockerals who would all crow loudly in unison for most of the day and often into the night. There is also the barking dog syndrome where the animals are allowed, often encouraged, to yap and bark all day. I have learnt Pilipinos enjoy loud noise and have absolutely no concerns for upsetting neighbours. So apart from the ear-shattering cockadoodle-dooing of roosters and barking dogs there is the blaring repetitive music emanating from huge speakers into the early hours. Some of my Filipino friends often appear tired when I saw them due to lack of sleep from other selfish locals. But Pilipinos are very tolerant of their inconsiderate countrymen although far less so of foreigners.
I have discovered another Pilipino trait of which my upbringing disapproves and that is whatever you give to the poor isn't really appreciated, it's expected. I recently spent about thirteen thousand pesos on taking a female friend to her niece's wedding in the province (the birth place) and many of her relatives on a day trip but got no acknowledgement of gratitude. I've bought phones, tablets, air tickets, all sorts for a variety of female friends all to the same degree. In an effort to find the right partner, someone who is honest and has integrity, I have been out with nine females. One I paid for air tickets and taxis from Manila, treated her like a queen, bought a tablet and found out after I sent her off at the airport she had stolen 13,000 pesos. My last girlfriend who I thought was ideal and we planned to marry and she desperately wanted a child by me, also had a Pilipino boyfriend on the side as I discovered from two of her relatives. I looked after her and her family very well and her two children called me ‘Dad’. Amazingly there is no actual Pilipino expression for 'thank you' and the word they rarely use, salamat, actually originates from Arabia. Even the street beggars don’t thank you for your donations and every time you pass children they will openly demand, ‘Give me money’, whether they are street kids or not.


Accommodation
After Lapu Lapu I stayed for a year in a nicely landscaped compound in Upper Labogon, Mandaue City. And herein lies the rub: If you enjoy the sound of noisy barking dogs (there were four in the compound) and loud crowing roosters this is the place for you. Also beware of the landlady, who any foreigner who has stayed there will tell you is not trustworthy. She reneged on a promise to contribute towards my monthly internet charge after I paid one year's rent and two months security deposit in advance. She also deducted amounts from the return of the deposit for non-existent problems, for example there is an aircon downstairs for which I never had a remote controller but she charged me 1,700 pesos for its loss, plus for damaged faucets which were not, plus for cleaning a stained mattress which was already in this state when I moved in, and she had lived in that apartment before me. Most Pilipino landlords and landladies are not to be trusted.



Animal welfare
We Westerners are invariably animal lovers so it was a culture shock for me when I saw tiny kittens left to die in the sun, stray cats everywhere or abandoned dogs scraping for survival with barely any fur left on their emaciated bodies. Compassion for animals is not a usual Pilipino characteristic. So my soft nature came to the fore and I always fed any strays with scraps in the hope they'll survive at least another day. The compound where I lived was high up with a view of a deep valley and mountains as a backdrop. A mother cat and her three kittens had adopted me because I gave them rice mixed with leftovers or sardines. When I awoke every morning they were waiting for me to open my front door, their small whinges demanding breakfast. A tin of sardines is cheaper there than a tin of cat food in the UK and yet the locals wouldn't dream of providing this food source to stray felines. One of the kittens, a jet black runt of the litter with a defective ear and was close to dying when I first moved in became a healthy fit young cat able to fend for itself like the others and it reminded me of a miniature panther. But it is not only animals that Pilipinos lack compassion for. Out of the 102 million population there are approximately 220,000 street children prone to drug addiction, starvation and sexual exploitation. They spend all day begging and I have never once seen a Pilipino put their hands in their pockets to give a small amount so the kid can buy some rice to stave off their hunger. A ninety-year old English friend of mine who contributes half of his measly UK pension to a Filipino family every week told me of another family who were starving he was unable to assist. So he went to the local priest who smokes, drinks and has a nice house and car and plays golf if he could help. Oh course came his reply. That’s good, said my friend. Yes, said the priest, I’ll pray for them.


Driving/travelling
Although I have been driving for over forty years mostly in the UK but sometimes in Europe and East Africa I never once considered driving in the Philippines for one second. Motoring there is a hit and miss affair and I was amazed I didn't see more accidents. There is no such thing as those silly speed limits or rules of the road we have back home and the roads are inundated with thousands of speeding motorcycles all intent on arriving at their destinations in the quickest time possible. Rules of the road and courtesy are non-existent there especially for pedestrians and I was always relieved when I was able to cross the road in one piece without losing a limb or loss of life. The pedestrian crossings are completely ignored by all and sundry and you have to wait for a gap in the fast-moving traffic to scuttle across to the other side. A while back I took an elderly English friend to a medical centre for a check-up where we met a young man from Norway who had lost a leg in a motorbike accident. It is not unusual for those types of accidents as many Pilipino motorcyclists have had no proper training and drive like maniacs even speeding on the pavements. Like most backward countries the authorities are corrupt so in the unlikely event a motorist is stopped for an offence a bribe to the ineffective policeman quickly sets the errant culprit back on the road.

Close to all the roads and highways there are high levels of pollution which is a major problem. Concerned citizens, including myself, always wore a mask to filter out the damaging exhaust discharges. By law every year every vehicle has to pass an emissions test but a small bribe will get drivers through so their diesel lorries can continue to belch out black smoke to infiltrate unprotected lungs.

In the world of small people everything is reduced in size, and the principles of health and safety haven't yet arrived in that part of Asia. So unless I used taxis, which was only for luggage or difficult journeys, I used jeepnies or tricycles. These modes of transport are basically designed for midgets and although I am only five feet six inches tall, probably a below average UK height, I still have small scars to show where I had banged my head on numerous occasions getting in and out of these dangerous vehicles. Also, because of the extremely cramped conditions, it always took a while for my joints to return to normal after an uncomfortable journey.


Pilipino habits
It also took me a while to become accustomed to the uncivilised habits of Pilipino males. Back home teenagers spit where they stand at bus stops but there men of all ages loudly hawk and spit on the pavements. I often had to run the gauntlet of spittle whilst at the same time dodging bikes, motorcycles or vehicles driving inches from where I stood due to the sidewalks being part of the road. Then there was the urinating. The men will relieve themselves virtually anywhere by the side of the road with no attempt at privacy. So too do the kids, they will pee in front of you where they stand. And the burping of either gender when eating is neither disguised nor attempted to be covered up. To watch some of my Pilipino friends eat is reminiscent of observing a pig consuming its swill.


Shopping
Every supermarket, bank or any large outlet has armed guards at the entrances who search every single piece of baggage and handbags. This would have been reassuring if there were any concerns for armed robberies or terrorism but there never were so this unnecessary procedure only served as an inconvenience.


Education
Sadly the education is far below European or US standards even at private schools. The state schools usually have classrooms of sixty-plus children. Even 'educated' people can't tell the difference between Americans or Europeans. Basically, and it hurts me to say this, most of the people are educationally substandard. Ask any foreigner and you will get the same answer.


Internet/communication
If communication is important to you don't go to the Philppines. There are several internet providers and I have tried them all and each and every one of them is utterly useless. The customer service staff are mindless, the technical staff haven't got a clue and to see just how useless the providers really are just pop into any office of PLDT, the biggest company, to voice your concerns and the place is absolutely packed out with people each clutching a ticket queuing number who have come to complain about the service. When I last visited before refusing to pay my bill there were probably thirty or more customers patiently waiting their turn.


Banking
The main bank is the Bank Of The Philippine Islands. They also have a branch in London so I thought it would be a good idea to open up an account in the UK, one over there, and then I could easily transfer money between the two. Not so although I was told I could. And the internet website looks like it was set up by a ten year old schoolboy and is definitely not user-friendly. This in mainly due to the way a Pilipino mind works which is different to a Western mind.


Immigration
The government is so corrupt that they will take your money under false pretences.  When I decided to emigrate I went to the Pilipino embassy in London and paid for a three-month visa thinking this would delay having to renew it less often. Upon arrival at Cebu airport’s immigration this quarterly visa evaporated into only a thirty-day visa so the money I had spent simply went into the unscrupulous governments’ coffers.  If you are from the UK you are only allowed thirty days which is free. You cannot use a three month visa even if you paid for it but the embassy don’t tell you this. After being in the country for one month you can apply for another one month, then three months, then six months. However you have to leave the country every sixteen months unless married to a Filipina. Most fly to Hong Kong or Singapore for a couple of days on a shopping trip. If you leave the Philippines having been there for longer than six months you have to obtain an exit visa which puts more unnecessary money into the corrupt government pockets. On top of that, and this is the only one of the many countries I have been to for which this applies, you have to pay to exit the country, 750 pesos at the airport, otherwise you can’t leave.


After having laid out most of the negative aspects of life in the Philippines for foreigners I will tell of the positive points. The cost of living is low and the scenery in parts is beautiful. We went with friends on a trip to the island of Borhol where the white sand, palm trees and warm ocean welcomed us with open arms. And it was quiet too, no barking dogs, no roosters and no pollution, not like Cebu.

But I wouldn't ever live in the Philippines again due to all the many negatives.

Now I'm here in Gozo (Malta) and it is peaceful, no barking undisciplined dogs, no roosters crowing all day and night, no scamming ladies, no beggars, no street kids abandoned because their parents didn't give a monkey's about them, no being woken at five am because the locals want to make some silly noise and most important of all no thick people.